2007 Fall PORSCHE Treffen & Fest
by Mark Pass
gretapass@comcast.net
When asked to describe a vacation experience, I have seldom used the term extraordinary. Most vacations my wife Greta and I give ourselves are generally described as “great”, or “wonderful”, or “restful”, or “a well deserved escape” from the lives we live pursuing our somewhat stressful, but fulfilling careers. “Extraordinary” is rarely if ever achieved. However, in the early fall of 2007, we discovered the holy grail of vacations dedicated to sports car enthusiasts and their mates, and although it will be almost impossible to adequately describe the full impact of what we experienced, we are compelled to take a crack at it.
In the early winter of 2006, while I longed for the beaches and golf courses of Hawaii in the fall of 2007, Greta was salivating over a brochure tucked into the envelope of her annual PCA request for renewal. This small brochure would cause us to put our plans for Hawaii on hold. Fast Lane Travel, Inc. (www.fastlanetravel.com), a Florida based specialty travel agency suggested that a romp through southern Europe in a Porsche supplied by the manufacturer might be a different and exciting way to spend either 3 or10 days, take your pick. Being the good sport that I am, (and hoping her interest might wane with the passage of time), I agreed, “yeah, that might be fun”. But it didn’t wane! She studied details of the trip and it became clear as spring approached that we were destined to spend some Euros and lay down some rubber. It also became clear that this was not going to be a typical tour of Europe, with museums, war memorials, churches, or day-long side trips on a tour bus. No, we were about to look at a different side of Europe; one that is not available to the average tourist; one that is truly unique, and yes, extraordinary.
Fast
Lane Travel is owned and operated by Mr. Peter
Sontag, an American of Austrian decent. Peter
brings three ingredients to his role as Fest
Meister, loosely translated as master of an auto
tour. I submit that these three ingredients may be
unique to this one individual, or at least to a
very few individuals in the travel and tour
business.
Peter
speaks fluent German and has personal and intimate
first hand knowledge of many rare points of
interest on the European Continent, built over 33 years of hosting 64 Treffens, meaning gatherings.
Peter has a unique long-term relationship with the
management and marketing departments at Porsche,
providing an entry into a world not available to
most in the travel industry. And finally, Peter
understands what the North American sports car nut
really wants but can’t get anywhere else. Peter
brings all these ingredients together, and more, to
create a truly exciting and extraordinary vacation
experience.
After
our morning tour, we excitedly boarded buses and
were driven to the Porsche Research and Development
facility near the village of Weissach, about 20
miles from Stuttgart. Weissach is where new Porsche
models and racecars are conceived and tested. Upon
arrival we enjoyed a wonderful lunch in the
executive dining room. After a sumptuous meal of
the tenderest veal imaginable, we were escorted to
the track adjacent to the office buildings. The
office buildings are where all those creative
engineers work. Waiting for us at the guest center
beside the track were four new red Porsches. One
was a Boxster S, one was Turbo 997 with Tiptronic
shift, a new Cayman and the last was a street model
Carrera 4S. We took turns in the passenger seat of
each car taking hot laps, each driven by a
professional Porsche trained driver whose job it is
to test Porsches on a daily basis. We hit speeds of
approximately 120 miles per hour and experienced
drifting around corners. There were several major
turns, a bunch of whop-de-dos and a beckoning
straightaway. It was zero to 60 in 4 seconds, and
100 to zero in 6 seconds. Personally, I had never
experienced an automobile ride like that, and most
in our group agreed that it was a fabulous
introduction to the capabilities of the car. For
Americans who drive the American road, I think it
is safe to say that we are very rarely given the
opportunity to see what our cars can do. Many
Porsche owners have been told or have read about
the capability of their automobile, but rarely are
they allowed to experience these limits. Most of us
got to enjoy our “first experience” at Weissach.
In the evening at dinner, we were introduced to our Porsche provided professional driving guides who would lead us on our tour through five countries during the next seven days. It was explained how we would be separated into groups of 5 or 6 cars, and what we could expect to do and see during the upcoming week. We learned about the driving laws we would be expected to observe in the countries we would traverse. The highlight was to learn about the famous German Autobahn. It was made clear that there is a definite road etiquette that each driver would be expected to follow. It is only by following these rules that the practice of high speed travel works on the German highway system.
The following morning we were transferred to the
Porsche marketing HQ in Ludwigsburg where we
received our 2007 model Porsche which we had
requested. Walkie-talkies were placed in each car.
It became apparent early in the journey that
keeping in contact with our guide was a great idea.
Not only did we receive driving instructions as we
drove, but we were also advised of points of
interest as we approached them. Having these
devices in the car proved to be a great idea. While
in Switzerland, a few of the cars in our group were
separated in heavy traffic. If we had not had the
walkie-talkies we would have been in a world of
hurt. But as intended, we were able to reconnect on
a side road by following our guides’ explicit
instructions. It’s nice when a system works!
We were
finally on the road! We headed south from Stuttgart
for two and a half hours to the southern German
town of Lindau, on Lake Constance (Bodensee in
German). This was our first experience on the
Autobahn. After clearing the congested populated
areas, we were allowed to “open them up”. We moved
into the outside left lane and pressed the pedal to
the metal. The average speed for the cars in our
group was 200 to 240 kilometers per hour, which
translates to 120 to 140 miles per hour. Man, what
a rush! We were driving through the gently rolling
hills of Bavaria but barely taking in the beautiful
landscapes. I seem to remember farmland behind long
white fences, and I think I saw a cow or two,
waiting to become seat leather on a new Porsche. As
the passenger in our car, I could hardly take me
eyes off the speedometer. The trees in the median
looked like a solid wall, and even the slower
traffic in the next two lanes to our right seemed
stationary, or barely moving. This was a scene that
would be repeated several times, but one that
always raised my pulse every time we went whizzing
past 100 miles per hour. Think about breaking
through the limits placed on your every day driving
habits, and then for up to 30 minutes at a stretch,
live way beyond your normal highway experience.
Imagine passing a cop at 120 miles per hour and not
getting his attention. This is the way Germans are
allowed to drive on many of the German highways. I
was either out of my mind or I have complete trust
in Greta’s driving ability. Praise the lord for
High Speed Driving and ProFormance Racing School.
Upon
reaching our destination, 26 Porsches pulled into
the portico of the Hotel Bayerischer Hof, which is
situated on the shores of Lake Constance. It is
located on an island in the lake connected to the
city of Lindau by a bridge. Our accommodations were
5 star and first class, including well-appointed
and unusually large rooms, at least by European
standards. The hotel on the shores of the lake was
absolutely stunning, and the service was
impeccable. The fact that our luggage was waiting
for us in our room, having been sent along prior to
our arrival in a sag wagon, was just a taste of the
wonderful service and attention that we were going
to receive, not only in Lindau, but everywhere we
went during our journey. Peter is a Mensch. He
takes care of everything.
It’s pretty difficult to impart to the reader our
level of enthusiasm and excitement, but it would be
an understatement to say that all participants
after that first days drive from Stuttgart to
Lindau were eager to share their experiences with
the other travelers in the group. We met in the
beer stube to extol our individual virtues as new,
but highly competent, race drivers that we had all
become during the trip. It was like attending a
bass fisherman’s convention, if you get my meaning.
Even the wife’s of the drivers who were sitting in
the passenger seat were excited. These are the same
people who sit in the passenger seat at home and
nag their husbands “to slow down and don’t drive
like a jerk you moron”. A pleasant transformation
was taking place. Little did we know that this was
just a taste of what the 12 cars going on for the 7
day Fest would be encountering? The next 6 days
made the first two seem tame by comparison.
To bring our first day’s activities to a conclusion
we enjoyed a great meal served aboard a charming
and ancient touring yacht cruising Lake Constance,
or Bodensee as it is known locally, and then a good
nights rest. The next mornings wake up call came at
6 AM. After breakfast 16 cars left to go back to
Stuttgart. Poor souls; they missed the most amazing
6 days imaginable.
The
next 6 days were dedicated to driving through and
over some of the most beautiful and enchanting
landscapes we had ever seen. We encountered 14 high
mountain passes in the Austrian, Liechtenstein,
Swiss, and Italian Alps, and we handled them with
ease in our motorcade of Porsches. The experience
one gets when driving on these roads is incredible.
Can you imagine covering hundreds of miles of roads
above the tree line on switchback roads with
hairpin turns, and many times with just a low rock
wall to take the place of a guardrail between your
car and a 2,000 foot drop? Fortunately, our
knowledgeable and well-trained guides were always
there to insist on a degree of sanity in our
driving behavior, and of course, assist us in
showing respect for those who aren’t able to drive
the most amazing automobile built by man. Most of
the cars that we encountered on these high mountain
passes were Mercedes, Audis, VWs, and the
occasional Ford Focus. And yes, the one lone
extended length camper (road lice) from Sweden
while descending the steepest and narrowest road of
all out of the Tyrolean Alps. Yes, they can be
found everywhere and anywhere! When we overtook the
other roadies, it was usually a string of six
Porsches at once with their engines screaming and
silly grins on the faces of the occupants of each
vehicle.
There were many highlights during our six-day trek.
There were top of the mountain chalets where we
stopped for a prearranged and prepared lunch. There
were great little restaurants in the valleys where
we stopped for a much needed shot of caffeine in
the form of super espresso, or a creamy cappuccino.
There was a stop in central Switzerland for a
gondola ride up to the top of Säntis Mountain where
one can view all of Switzerland, western Austria,
southern Germany, and the little country of
Liechtenstein within a 360 degree view.
We used the first class Hotel Kempinski in Sankt
(Saint) Moritz, Switzerland as our base of
operations for three nights and days. St. Moritz is
a world-class ski resort with world class shopping,
if that might be your passion. It is the home of
some of the world’s finest chocolatiers. I left the
Gucci and Prada shops to Greta. I wanted chocolate,
big time!
On our
first night in St Moritz we were treated to a
dinner at a mountain chalet about a mile above the
city. The festivities were commenced with our group
being met on the patio by a trio of Alpenhörner
(think Riiiiiiicolaaaah). Surprisingly, this is a
very versatile instrument. In the right hands, it
can render a wide variety of music. The experience
was augmented by being met at the patio by our wine
steward with fine champagne and other refreshing
fruits of the vine, or a hoppy brew, if that was
your poison. After being seated and starting the
Vorspeise or appetizers, we were entertained by a
troupe of authentically dressed Swiss Folk dancers.
I know, you probably think it’s campy, but believe
me, after several glass of local wine, you just
want to get up and join them. Hard not to get into
the spirit, even for die hard Porsche enthusiasts
who are disgustingly cooooooooool.
The following day it was off on an eight hour tour
through the Swiss Alps, with a scheduled stop for
lunch in Meran, Italy, called Merano by the
Italians. Here are a few things you need to know.
The Italian Alps are called the Dolomites because
of the predominance of dolomite lime in their make
up. The mountains are steep and crumbly, making for
some interesting vistas. Did you know the Merano
region of Italy was captured by Italy from Austria
during World War I? That is why the citizens of the
Dolomites ainly speak German and don’t really fit
in with the rest of the country. And finally,
Merano is the apple growing center of Italy with
orchards stretching as far as the eye can see
around Merano. Just thought you should know.
We were
treated to a spectacular lunch at the Castel
(Italian spelling) Fragsburg (German spelling) high
above the valley, a most beautiful destination. To
get there one has to drive through the valley and
climb a very steep and narrow road. The difficult
part is making your way on local roads frequented
by crazy Italians drivers who drive like there is
no one else on the road. As well organized as the
German and Swiss roadways are, the Italians aren’t.
Going through one of their roundabouts is truly one
of life’s great adventures. You just might get the
idea that they don’t like Porsches and Porsche
drivers. You must take a trip to Italy to make your
own judgment. Hopefully you aren’t sensitive to
legions of drivers offering you the famous
one-fingered highway salute.
After lunch it was back on the road to St. Moritz. Rather than backtracking over the mountain pass we took to get to Italy, we turned into the mountains on the most amazing road we had ever laid eyes on. It is called the Stilfser Joch, rising from the valley floor to an elevation of almost 9,000 feet above sea level. There are 48 hairpin turns going up Stilfser on the Italian side, and 36 coming back down on the other side to Switzerland. One would never guess what is waiting for the unsuspecting traveler at the top the mountain. At the top of the pass is a quaint ski resort in a village with coffee shops, restaurants, and hotels. Since this area is very remote, being some 60 twisting miles from Merano and at least the same from St. Moritz, I am not too sure where its customers come from. Hmmm, guess it will have to remain a mystery for the time being. I’ll do more research for our next trip to the area.
That
night we had dinner in St. Moritz at a restaurant
in a hunting lodge in a thicket somewhere out of
town. The restaurant serves mostly game, like
venison and other beasts. They cook the roasts on a
spit over the open fire in the main dining room.
And as usual, the wine and beer flowed plentifully.
The various offerings were delicious, and hardly
anyone suffered from dyspepsia.
We left
St. Moritz the following morning and made our way
over the Juliar Pass back to Lake Constance .The
drive that morning was uneventful but beautiful, providing more challenging driving through the
mountains. And just for the record, I drove, which
was one of three times on the trip. I had to resort
to threats to get the wheel from my lovely wife, but it was worth twice the price.
Waiting for us lunch at the Inselhotel in the city
of Konstanz, was a sumptuous lunch served on the
patio overlooking the lake. The building was built
in the early 1800’s as a monastery and is located
at the western end of the lake. Truly a majestic
piece of architecture, it is located at the
headwaters of the Rhine River which makes its’ way
through Europe to finally empty into the North Sea.
After
lunch we hit the Autobahn on our trip back to
Stuttgart to drop the cars off at Porsche. Greta
was at the wheel when the speedometer hit 273
kilometers per hour and was held there for 8
minutes. We have the video to prove it. That’s
approximately 171 miles per hour American. We
covered 60 kilometers in 18 minutes. Another way of
looking at it is that we covered the length of one
football field every second. You can do the math!
It should be noted that fast driving is optional
for each driver. Pushing a car to these speeds is
not recommended for those who don’t wish to see
their lives flash by their eyes during every
instant of the trip. Our guides made it very clear
that each driver should go only as fast as he felt
comfortable, and most of our group held at 100 to
120 miles per hour and were perfectly content to do
so. All except my wife, “Parnelli” Pass. I must
admit that when we finally dropped the car off at
Porsche that afternoon, I enjoyed a certain sense
of relief. My wife cried and didn’t want to part
from the Porsche and the “high” which she knew she
would never experience back in the good ole
USA.
Our
last day in Stuttgart was a Saturday. It was a
restful day of sleeping in, having a leisurely
breakfast, and shopping at a massive open air volks
markt, one that a visitor to Stuttgart should not
miss. It is set in two of the main squares in
Stuttgart in the center of the shopping district
the Marktplatz and Schillerplatz. If you don’t want
to look at dried flowers and a multitude of freshly
picked vegetables, or arts and crafts, stroll
through the square listening to music or shop in
the many small shops and department stores just off
the square. Sitting at a table drinking espresso
and people watching is a gas as well.
At 3:30
that afternoon we boarded a bus to visit
Stuttgart’s version of Oktoberfest. Peter made us
do it! Honest, we had no choice! We spent our last
night in Stuttgart with our fearless tour guides,
our Fest Meister Peter, and several people from the
marketing department at Porsche. It was something
you have to see to believe. Envision a tent with
two or three acres of ground under canvas, a sound
stage with local bands, and 6,000 singing Germans
and an assortment of Scandinavians, Irishmen,
Poles, eastern Europeans, and your token American
tourists. The participants were singing when we
entered the tent at 4:00 PM, and they were still
singing at 10:00 PM when we left. The songs were a
mix of old German drinking songs and some good old
rock and roll, all in German. The food was tavern
exceptional, and the beer, served by the strongest
serving wenches you have ever seen, was the best I
have ever tasted. I figure each stein had to weigh
at least 5 pounds and it is not uncommon to see one
of these Fräuleins carrying 10 steins. Each beer
stein is roughly equal to one of our pitchers. I
have never tasted beer so mellow and smooth that
went down so easily. Even Greta, who never drinks,
had two. I have it on video – another side of her
which I had not ever seen in our 16 years of
marriage. Top it off with a little pear schnapps
and you are perfectly adjusted to get out of bed
the next morning at 3:30 AM to catch a 6 AM flight.
To find out what you are really made of, you need
to do this and then add a 14 hour flight to get
home. Everybody should do it…at least once!
This was a most extraordinary and unique 10 days in
our lives. We missed the war monuments, museums,
famous churches, and other sites that are typically
visited on a European vacation. But we didn’t
“miss” the war monuments, museums, famous churches,
and other tourist sites because our time was fully
dedicated and occupied; our senses were peaked by
constant excitement and our enjoyment of a truly
different way to see this part of the world. If you
are looking for a maximum return on your travel
investment, you will receive full value beyond
anything available in the travel market. You will
be challenged to find a more fulfilling experience,
and like us, one that you will be tempted to repeat
many times in the future. Yours, Mark Pass,
supportive husband of Greta’s passion.
NOTE: We'll be happy to put you in touch with
past participants so you can experience firsthand the enjoyment of Porsche Fest.